Asscher Cut Gemstones

Asscher Cut

The Asscher Cut is a modified square cut or emerald cut that dates back more than 100 years. Originally designed for diamonds, it was a popular cut in the 1920s and was incorporated into many Art Deco designs. The late 1990s saw a resurgence of interest in the Asscher cut when a number of celebrities selected it for engagement rings.

Asscher Cut Sapphire

The Asscher cut was first designed by Joseph Asscher in 1902. At that time the Asscher Diamond Company had already been recognized as one of the leading diamond cutters. They were responsible for cleaving some of the most important diamonds in the world, including the 997 carat Excelsior diamond in 1903 and the 3,106 carat Cullinan diamond in 1908.

The Asscher cut was developed to address the challenge of enhancing the brilliance of step cuts like the emerald cut. Unlike the rectangular shape of the emerald cut with its distinct cut corners, the Asscher cut features a square shape with nearly octagonal outlines. Instead of the shallow emerald cut's keel-line, the bottom of the Asscher cut is adorned with symmetrical parallel facets that converge into a single central point.

Typically, the Asscher cut consists of 58 facets, including the table and culet (or 66 facets, including the 8 girdle facets). In the case of colored gemstones, a sharp point is often used instead of a culet facet at the bottom. The combination of this new cut's symmetry and increased depth results in heightened brilliance and fire compared to the emerald cut. Additionally, the table of the Asscher cut showcases an intriguing windmill-like pattern.

Asscher Cut Diamond

In 2001, Edward and Joop Asscher updated the design, adding more facets and a slightly larger table to increase brilliance. The Royal Asscher Cut has a high crown and 74 facets. Square emerald cuts and Asscher cuts are similar in facet patterns, but Asschers tend to have a depth of 60% or greater and a smaller table than square emerald cuts. If you are considering an Asscher cut, you should be aware that face up, they are quite small for their carat weight due to their depth relative to their crown dimensions.

Princess Cut Chrysoberyl

Asscher cut diamonds are now available from most diamond dealers, though the more recent Royal Asscher Cut is patented and is only available from Royal Asscher. In colored gemstones, the Asscher is a very specialized cut, mostly to be found from custom lapidaries. The square princess cut remains easier to find in colored stones.