search
  • Sign In
    Sign Up
  • English speaking customer support only

    1-800-464-1640

  • Change Language
  • USD
By Gavin Clarke Reviewed By Andreas Zabczyk Aug 06, 2008 Updated Nov 06, 2018

Intro to Setting Gems

Bezel-Set Peridot Earrings
Bezel-Set Peridot Earrings

A setting is a metal form into which a gemstone is placed to make jewelry. The metal, known as a mounting or finding in the jewelry trade, may be made of a precious metal like gold, silver or platinum; or some less valuable metal like tungsten steel or titanium.

The setting uses claws, prongs, a bezel, or other means to hold the gemstone securely in place. The task of setting a gemstone can be simple or complicated, depending on the size and shape of the gem and the type of setting.

The simplest case of setting a gemstone is one where a gemstone in a calibrated size is placed in a standard mass-produced setting. Some of these standard settings are designed for inexperienced consumers to use with only very simple tools. Some cleverly designed mountings will snap shut once the gem is placed in the correct position, merely requiring the claws or prongs to be tightened to ensure that the setting is secure. However, most gemstone buyers still go to their local jeweler to have their gemstones set.

6-Prong Ring Setting
6-Prong Ring Setting

The term calibrated size refers to a gemstone that is sized to fit in these standard settings. There are a variety of calibrated sizes for each popular gemstone shape. The sizes are measured in millimeters, and the measurements for most gems have two values, such as 7 x 5 mm. This means the gem is 7 millimeters long and 5 millimeters wide. Since gemstones are three dimensional, they obviously have a depth measurement as well. But this measurement is generally not important for the size of the setting, so the size is usually given with two numbers only. The exception to this is round stones, where the length and width is the same. So calibrated sizes for round stones are stated with a single number, which indicates the diameter of the stone.

3-Prong Ring Setting
3-Prong Ring Setting

Nearly any round gem can be put in a standard claw or prong setting, even if the gem is not a calibrated size. That's because it's easy to adjust the prongs in a 4 or 6 claw round setting. With other shapes, there are various factors to be considered. As a rule, gems under one carat can be within .1 mm of the calibrated setting size. For gemstones over one carat in weight, a .2 mm variance can usually be accommodated and sometimes more.

If a a non-round stone is not close enough to a calibrated size, it will require a custom setting. This means that instead of using a cheaper mass-produced setting, the jeweler will have to create a setting especially designed for the specific gemstone. This will be more expensive and time-consuming, but for a special or unique gemstone it is usually worth the effort and expense.

STAY IN TOUCH
*You're signing up to receive GemSelect promotional email.
Partners and Trust Payment options

Switch to Mobile Version

Privacy Notice © 2005-2023 GemSelect.com all rights reserved.

Reproduction (text or graphics) without the express written consent of GemSelect.com (SETT Company Ltd.) is strictly prohibited.

607

More Shapes
Popular Gemstones
  • Sapphire
  • Emerald
  • Ruby
  • Aquamarine
  • Zircon
  • Opal
  • Topaz
  • Tourmaline
  • Garnet
  • Amethyst
  • Citrine
  • Tanzanite
All Gemstones (146)
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T V Z
  • Actinolite Cat's Eye
  • Agate
  • Agate Geode
  • Almandine Garnet
  • Amazonite
  • Amethyst
  • Amethyst Geode Slice
  • Ametrine
  • Ammolite
  • Andalusite
  • Andesine Labradorite
  • Apatite
  • Aquamarine
  • Aventurine
  • Azotic Topaz
  • Azurite
  • Black Opal
  • Bloodstone
  • Boulder Opal
  • Carnelian
  • Cat's Eye Apatite
  • Cat's Eye Aquamarine
  • Cat's Eye Gemstones
  • Cat's Eye Moonstone
  • Cat's Eye Opal
  • Cat's Eye Scapolite
  • Chalcedony
  • Charoite
  • Chocolate Opal
  • Chrome Diopside
  • Chrysoberyl
  • Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye
  • Chrysocolla
  • Chrysoprase
  • Citrine
  • Color Change Gemstones
  • Color-Change Diaspore
  • Color-Change Fluorite
  • Color-Change Garnet
  • Coral
  • Demantoid Garnet
  • Dendritic Agate
  • Diamond
  • Druzy Amethyst
  • Druzy Azurite
  • Druzy Citrine
  • Druzy Variscite
  • Emerald
  • Enstatite
  • Fire Agate
  • Fire Opal
  • Fluorite
  • Fossil Coral
  • Garnet
  • Golden Beryl
  • Grandidierite
  • Grossularite Garnet
  • Hawk's Eye
  • Hematite
  • Hemimorphite
  • Hemimorphite Druzy
  • Hessonite Garnet
  • Howlite
  • Idocrase
  • Imperial Topaz
  • Iolite
  • Jade Gemstones
  • Jadeite
  • Jasper
  • Kornerupine
  • Kunzite
  • Kyanite
  • Labradorite
  • Lapis Lazuli
  • Larimar
  • Malachite
  • Malaya Garnet
  • Mali Garnet
  • Maw-Sit-Sit
  • Moonstone
  • Morganite
  • Mother Of Pearl
  • Mystic Quartz
  • Mystic Topaz
  • Nuummite
  • Obsidian
  • Onyx
  • Opal
  • Opal Doublet
  • Opal In Matrix
  • Pearl
  • Peridot
  • Pietersite
  • Prehnite
  • Psilomelane Dendrite
  • Pyrite
  • Pyrope Garnet
  • Quartz
  • Quartz Cat's Eye
  • Quartz With Hedenbergite
  • Quartz With Marcasite
  • Rainbow Moonstone
  • Rainbow Pyrite
  • Rhodochrosite
  • Rhodolite Garnet
  • Rhodonite
  • Rose Quartz
  • Rubellite Tourmaline
  • Ruby
  • Ruby In Fuchsite
  • Ruby-Zoisite
  • Rutile Quartz
  • Sapphire
  • Scapolite
  • Scolecite
  • Seraphinite
  • Serpentine
  • Sillimanite
  • Sillimanite Cat's Eye
  • Smithsonite
  • Smoky Quartz
  • Snowflake Obsidian
  • Sodalite
  • Spectrolite
  • Spessartite Garnet
  • Sphalerite
  • Sphene
  • Spinel
  • Star Diopside
  • Star Garnet
  • Star Gemstones
  • Star Moonstone
  • Star Rose Quartz
  • Star Ruby
  • Star Sapphire
  • Strawberry Quartz
  • Sunstone
  • Tanzanite
  • Tiger's Eye
  • Tiger's Eye Matrix
  • Topaz
  • Tourmaline
  • Tsavorite Garnet
  • Turquoise
  • Variscite
  • Zircon
Main Categories
  • New Arrivals
  • Gemstone Lots
  • Calibrated Gemstones
  • Gemstones By Piece
  • Top Grade Gems
  • Matching Pairs
  • Cabochon Gemstones
  • Drilled Gems, Briolettes and Beads
  • Birthstones
  • Gemstone Carvings
  • Fancy Gemstones
  • Star Gemstones
  • Unheated Sapphire
English speaking customer support only

Toll Free - USA & Canada only:
1-800-464-1640

International:
+66-39609697

Save Money
No shipping Fees for Additional Items!
$8.90 Worldwide Shipping

Update Translation
 
Current Value
New Value
GemSelect Gemstones
X Close Window
Colored Gemstones
X Close Window
Colored Gemstones
X Close Window
Colored Gemstones
Size and Weight

Gems are always measured in Millimeter (mm)

Dimensions are given as;
length x width x depth,
except for round stones which are;
diameter x depth

Select gems by size, not by weight!
Gem varieties vary in density, so carat weight is not a good indication of size

Note: 1ct = 0.2g

Size Comparison Chart