When it comes to gemstones,
shape and
cut are are often used interchangeably. The reason is because the difference between the two isn't always obvious. Shape refers to the overall outline of a stone, while 'cut' refers the actual style, process or technique used to work the rough into finished gemstone pieces. Historically, a trilliant gem exhibits the
basic trilliant design, featuring 43 facets cut into a triangular shape gemstone that has been worked into 1:1 ratio and cut with 43 facets. The 43 facets are based on the 'brilliant-cut' in order to maximize 'brilliance'. Like other brilliant cuts, the equilateral form of a well-cut trilliant gem should return a substantial degree of light and color to the eye. The trillion cutting style was originally introduced by the Asscher brothers (
Asscher-cut) and was trademarked in 1962 by Henry Meyer Diamond Company of New York. Since the expiration of their 'trillion' patent, the term can be used to refer to all triangular shaped gems, even those which are not faceted.
Many trillions today are step-cut, scissor-cut, plain-cut, mixed-cut with undulating surfaces, and trillion gemstones are even cut en
cabochon, featuring a flat bottom with a low or high dome depending on the type of gem. As long as the gemstone has a face-up outline or shape which resembles a triangle, then it can be described as a trillion-shaped gemstone. Gemstones like zircon, spinel,
diamond,
aquamarine,
beryl and white
sapphire are often cut as trillions to maximize brilliance, while darker gemstones such as
tanzanite,
spessartite garnet,
rhodolite garnet and
amethyst are given a trilliant cut in order to lighten and brighten color (rather than focusing on brilliance). Since most diamond-cut styles are modified for colored stones, many colored stone dealers use alternative terms that refer to shape rather than cut-style.
