Prong vs. Bezel Settings
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| Bezel-Set Amethysts |
The two most common ways of mounting a large single gemstone are the prong (or claw) setting and the bezel setting. These two popular settings are used in earrings and pendants as well as rings. In a prong or claw setting there are typically three or more pieces of metal raised above the base of the setting which bend slightly over the stone to hold it in place. Usually the prongs are notched so that the girdle of the gemstone sits firmly in the prong. In a bezel setting a piece of metal partially or completely surrounds the stone to hold it in place.
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| Classic Tiffany 4-Prong Setting |
Both types of settings have their advantages and disadvantages. The main advantages of the bezel setting is that it is very protective of the gemstone, and this is particularly important with some of the softer stones that have become popular. Gems such as tanzanite, opal, sphene, chrome diopside, turquoise, apatite and fluorite have a hardness less than 7 on the Mohs scale, meaning they can be scratched fairly easily. Bezel settings help to protect these softer stones, particularly if they are set in rings.
Another advantage of the bezel setting is that a well-designed bezel in a precious metal can be very attractive.
The main disadvantages of bezel settings is that they are typically more expensive, since more metal is required and the setting usually has to be custom-made to fit the specific gemstone. A bezel also covers more of the gemstone. This is not so much of an issue with opaque stones like most cabochons, but it may affect the light that reaches a transparent stone. Some designs address this issue with bezels that that don't completely surround the stone. The height of the bezel is also a factor; a lower bezel will expose more of the stone.
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| 8-Prong Sapphire Diamond Setting |
Prong settings provide maximal exposure for the gem. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage. It lets more light reach the stone and often makes the gemstone look larger by raising it from the band, as in the classic Tiffany setting. But it also exposes the gem to knocks and bumps. Prong settings need to be checked frequently to ensure that none of the claws is loose or broken. Losing a claw can mean losing a valuable gem.
Though the prongs are often unobtrusive, different claw designs can enhance the design of a setting. Claws come in many different shapes, and there are special prongs to hold the sharp points of a marquise or pear-shaped gem. The most common prong settings use 4,6 or even 8 prongs. The greater the number of prongs, the more secure the setting. The quality of the setting is also extremely important. A well-constructed prong setting will last for many years.
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